Today, we're thrilled to welcome Camelia to the blog, joining us from the Advisors Circle. Her past contributions have included beautiful designs such as the Terrace Dresses, Neighborhood Sweatshirts, and the Afternoon Tea Blouse. Recently, many of you expressed interest in adding slant pockets to your trousers, especially after enjoying our Hollywood Trousers Sew-Along. Lucky for you, Camelia is here today with a detailed tutorial on how to draft slant pockets for trousers.
From the very first moment I laid eyes on the Hollywood Trousers pattern, I fell in love. However, given my lifestyle doesn't exactly call for formal trousers, I decided to make mine out of denim for a more casual yet stylish look. I also felt that slant pockets would complement the denim aesthetic perfectly. Here's how I customized the pattern and added these sleek slant pockets.
All the modifications were made to the front leg pattern piece. First, ensure you've made all necessary fit adjustments before moving on to drafting the pockets. These measurements worked well for me, but feel free to tweak them according to your hand size and preferences.
To begin, mark a point 3 inches in from the side seam and 6 1/4 inches down from the waist edge along the side seam. This will create the pocket opening. Connect these two points with a straight line.
Next, measure 4 inches down from the side seam and 2 inches in from the waist edge along the waistline. These points will serve as the depth of the pocket and its anchor, ensuring it stays securely in place when worn.
Draw lines from these points toward the center of the pocket to form a square shape. For added space, I extended the side line slightly further inward and blended it back to the waistline. To soften the corners of the pocket bag, round them off slightly.
Don't forget to add seam allowances—typically 1/2 inch unless specified otherwise. Trace the newly drafted pocket pieces onto separate sheets of paper. The pocket facing (cut from lining material) and the pocket bag (cut from the main fabric) should align with the grain of the pant leg.
Once the pieces are traced, trim the pocket opening on the front leg pattern piece while retaining the seam allowance.
For thicker fabrics, consider creating a small facing for the pocket bag that covers only the opening. Ensure this facing is slightly larger than the opening to prevent the lining from peeking out.
With all the pieces cut, it's time to sew! I used contrasting thread to make the process easier to follow. To start, serge or finish the long edge of the pocket bag facing and attach it to the top of the pocket bag.
Sew the pocket facing to the front leg piece using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, then trim the seam allowance to 1/8 inch. In my case, I stitched the wrong side of the pocket to the right side of the pants to showcase the polka-dot lining on the inside.
Press the pocket facing towards the back and give it a crisp crease, pressing the seam towards the inside to avoid any lining showing on the outside. Topstitching can be added for a polished finish.
For a quick finish, place the pocket bag over the previously assembled piece and sew along the pocket edge, trimming as needed. Alternatively, a French seam can provide a more refined finish.
After topstitching, open the pocket facing again and place the pocket bag on top. Stitch with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, then trim the seam to 1/8 inch. Turn the pocket bag right side out, press it well, and sew a second row of stitching 3/8 inch from the edge. Baste the pocket at the waist and side seams to keep it secure during assembly.
And there you have it—your Hollywood Trousers now feature stylish slant pockets!
I hope you'll give this a try—it's a simple way to refresh the look of your Hollywood Trousers.
If you enjoyed this tutorial, you might also want to check out our Eleven Tutorials for Pockets for more inspiration.
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Let me know if you have any questions or need further clarification on any step. Happy sewing!
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