Exploration: Depth butt down industry

On December 9th, the Chinese Filament Weaving Association and the Chinese Down Industry Association held the China Down Products Fabric Development Forum in Xiaoshan. This was a brand-new attempt for the first time for the filament fabric companies and the feather brands to join, and the seamless cooperation between the upstream and downstream industries began. New chapter.

Filament fabrics can be used as fabric coating technology by the vice president of the China National Textile and Apparel Council and Xu Wenying, president of the China Long Silk Weaving Association, to ensure that no fillers such as feathers are used for “drilling” or “running hair”. With the development and application of fine denier high density fabrics, chemical filament fabrics have taken a crucial step in the down products market. Now fine denier high density fabrics have been widely used in down fabrics, which fundamentally changed the traditional concept of down fabrics. With the continuous improvement of the technological level of fine denier high density fabrics, anti-drilling technology is no longer dependent on the coating, the appearance of down products is free from bloated and stiff, replaced by light and thin and comfortable. In addition, with the development and application of new types of fibers and functional fibers, chemical fiber filament fabrics provide more novel features for down products. The use of functional fabrics such as radiation protection, UV protection, antibacterial, anti-mite, far-infrared and other functional fabrics has enabled down products to provide consumers with more novel features in addition to their warm and warm features.

With the improvement of the processing level of nylon raw materials and the advancement of fine denier nylon filament weaving technology, high-grade winter clothes based on fine denier high density polyamide fabrics have gradually become the highlight of fashion consumption. The nylon fabric can not only overcome the hard plates and crunchy appearance of the polyester fabric in the low-temperature environment, but also easily break and other weaknesses appearing in the extremely low-temperature environment, can be free from the influence of temperature, always maintain the softness characteristics, and have good resistance to wrinkles. Grinding and dyeing is a key point in the development of fabrics for down products.

Down fabric seeks diversification Yao Xiaoman, chairman of the China Down Industry Association, has developed a growing number of down apparel products. Many brands are supporting the production of down products, such as down vests, down knee pads, etc. Insufficient fashion is a big contrast to down apparel with increasing fashion. Poor fashion makes the consumer groups of such products limited to the elderly. How to make young and fashionable consumer groups accept such products is a problem that down apparel companies need to think about, and down jacket derivatives need to be further developed.

In recent years, more and more fashion brands have begun to introduce down apparel products in winter, which constitutes a certain ** for professional down apparel brands. Although there are not many down apparel styles introduced by fashion brands, the turnover of single items is high, and its sales advantage is very obvious.


In China's first-tier cities, competition in the down apparel market has become very fierce. In particular, the entry of international brands and fashion brands has caused professional down apparel brands to suffer a certain amount of criticism. In China's third and fourth tier cities, the market competition is less intense than in tier one and tier two cities, and has relatively mature consumers. The development space of the down apparel market is still relatively large. Professional down apparel brands should pay special attention to these cities.

Establishing the Benchmark of Cold-proof Fabrics Huang Zhixiang, Chairman of Suzhou Zhixiang Textile Science and Research Co., Ltd. If differentiation and development are the tactics of brand building, then the development of layout supply chain is an ambitious strategy for building aspirational brands. As the first strategic partner of the China Fashion Alliance, Aspiration has a lot of consensus on the concept of brand building. Unlike the general labor-intensive manufacturing companies, we are more like a modern textile technology company that integrates with upstream and downstream resources and provides services.

After many years of business accumulation, we have clearly recognized that the "labor-intensive + production-oriented" business model will inevitably become narrower and narrower, and the textile field in the future must be a "technology-intensive + innovative R & D-based" business model. At present, the company researches and develops as many as 500 kinds of new fabrics each year. Its product innovation and quality rank among the top in the country, and it has a certain trend guiding force in the field of cold-proof fabrics, forming a unique product competitive advantage of the company. Aspiration has now established strategic alliances with domestic first and second tier feather brand companies to provide targeted product development to meet the individual needs of brand customers.

Innovative Fabric Finishing Technology Xu Derong, general manager of Jiangsu Lixin Group Co., Ltd. For down products, we can start from three directions in terms of weaving: innovation of raw materials, increase in density, and change in weaving methods. Afterwards, there are also three basic entry points: anti-velvet performance, breathable wind protection and warmth retention.

We can focus on the following four types of fibers: Polyester fibers As one of the three main fibers in synthetic fibers, it is particularly important to improve the moisture absorption and perspiration characteristics of polyester. Fine-denier fibers, now and in the future, will dominate the textile fibers, allowing the silk-like fabrics to achieve light, soft, cool, and slippery effects. After ultra-thin polyester fabrics are alkali-reduced, they are then subjected to special soft kisses. Water finishing can get the appearance and feel of real silk. High shrinkage cotton yarns with a thermal shrinkage of 15% to 25% are used for weaving a variety of tanning, embossing and jacquard fabrics, which can greatly increase the fabric density. As a new type of cellulose fiber, St. Hemp fiber has high wet and dry strength, good moisture absorption and breathability, and can be used for bacteriostasis and mildew proofing.

In addition, we have also developed many new fibers from the beginning of weaving. For example, “Star Star E”, an ultrafine polyester raw material, is a core-sheath composite yarn produced using a special spin-drawing technology. The special weaving process allows the yarn to exhibit natural irregularities during processing, compared to the conventional polyester core. After the sheath composite yarn is made of a fabric, the texture is more delicate, the appearance is more drape than the traditional products, and the texture is softer, close to the delicate feel of nylon and silk. Most importantly, "Line star E" can also be used to weave knitted fabrics suitable for down products.

The Popular Focus of Down Fabrics Gu Yinghua, Deputy General Manager of Suzhou Yalu Holdings Co., Ltd. Combined with domestic and international information, we can roughly summarize the color trends of 2013/2014 down apparel fabrics into the following four themes. Topic 1: Sweet memories, tribute to tradition. This series has a richer color palette. Stable and mature honey color, mustard sub-color, ripe brown, sea green green, gray green, rose fruit color convey the signal of returning to the classic. The bright rose-rose color not only revives the impression of folk crafts. , bring more innovation. Theme II: The origin of life, low-carbon ahead. The color of the earth will be re-used. Brick red, licorice, ginger, green onion, black, beige, and gray are simple and natural combinations. Theme 3: Emotional technology. The selection of warm colors challenged people's traditional ideas for technology and injected new emotions into the technology. The main colors of the game were ocean blue, metallic aluminum, bronze, egg green, light violet, and magenta. Theme IV: Hard elegance. The combination of clean and bright colors and steady dark color, bright but not rich, the main color is magenta, nude, violet ink, carbon purple, khaki and so on.

After reviewing the clothing and fabric markets at home and abroad, we have summarized the major types of down jackets for men and women in 2013/2014. In the aspect of women's clothing, the three-dimensional effect of autumn knitted fabrics, knitted fabrics, and leather fabrics is full of texture due to the use of knotted fancy yarns or the use of tufting, embossing, and sculpting. In terms of men's clothing, the 2013/2014 high-performance down jacket for fall/winter has been free from the bloated feeling that down jackets usually give people. The interval between stitches is small, and the color is bright and bright, giving people a sense of simplicity.