From the fiber raw material to the final manufacture of the finished fabric, it needs to be subjected to spinning, weaving, printing and dyeing, etc., and each project needs to be completed after a continuous number of processes.
In all levels of processing, improper setting conditions, negligence of personnel operations, mechanical failures, etc., may cause defects in the appearance of the product. In theory, the more layers of processing, the higher the probability of occurrence of defects.
The shortcoming that can be seen in the appearance of fabrics is called Fabric Defect. However, there is no abnormality in the state of the woven fabric. If it is bleached or dyed, it will appear prominently. This kind of general is called Latent Defect or recessive sputum.
There is a saying in my country: "Make more mistakes, less mistakes, less good." Although this language is not suitable for modern work, it is very practical for use in the multi-level processing of textiles.
There are few perfect things in the world, and the spinning process will cause the original yarn to produce flaws, such as cotton (Nep), slub, etc.; the weaving process will cause the fabric to produce flaws, such as the mistpick, the warp. (Broken Ends), etc.; printing and dyeing projects can cause defects in the finished fabric, such as Dye Spot, Tailing or Ending. Finished fabrics of good quality should be minimal.
If there is a lot of finished fabrics, whether it is used for clothing, clothing, or other daily necessities and decorations, it will affect its appearance and reduce its value.
Second, the appearance characteristics and causes of fabric defects
From fiber to finished fabric, the processing stage can be divided into four stages: spinning, Weaving, Scouring & Bleaching, Dyeing, Printing and Finishing.
Now, in the various stages that may occur, the general characteristics of the factory are used to describe the appearance characteristics and the reasons for the generation:
1. Those who belong to fiber raw materials and yarn counts
2. Those who are involved in weaving
3. Those who are involved in printing and dyeing
4. The reason for the generation is difficult to belong to and the professional processor
1. Those who belong to fiber raw materials and yarn counts
(1) Cotton (Nep) (2) Cottonseed (Seeds)
(3) Slub (4) Fly (Flyer)
(5) Cockled Yarn (6) Uneven Yarn
(7) Cloudd of Weaaving (8) Fiber Spot
(9) Different batches (Different Iots) (10) Poor steaming
(11) White point
(1) Cotton (Nep)
Appearance: The cloth surface presents a cotton fiber mass similar to the size of the joint, and is spun into the yarn. If it is unplugged, the yarn is broken or will be in a broken state. Low-grade raw cotton spun roving, often with such defects.
Causes:
1. There is a dead cotton fiber mass in the raw cotton, which is not completely removed during the flowering process.
2. The needle of the cylinder or the needle plate is not sharp enough when the card is combed, or the gap between the two is not properly set, and the combing effect is not fully exerted.
(2) Cottonseed (Seeds)
Appearance: The cotton or cotton fiber blended fabric surface has small black or dark non-fibrous fiber fragments.
Causes:
1. During the ginning process, when the cotton fiber is separated from the cottonseed, the cotton root is carried at the root end, or the cotton seed is crushed and blended into the raw cotton.
2. The process of clearing flowers failed to completely remove cottonseed.
(3) Rough knot (Slub)
Appearance: On the warp or weft of the fabric, there is a small length of about 5 to 20 mm. The normal diameter of the yarn is thicker, and the tufted fiber is less than the normal number of fried.
Causes:
1. In the roving fed during the spinning, the density inside the fiber is not uniform, and there is a small dense bundle of fusiform fibers.
2. The top rollers and aprons of the fine spinning machine fail to uniformly feed the roving.
(4) Fly (Flyer)
Appearance: Similar to the thick knot, but it is thicker, not as slender as a thick knot, and the fibers are agglomerated. The yarn is slightly unwound so as not to break the yarn.
Causes:
A fiber mass floating in the air between the spun yarns, or a fiber mass accumulated in the machine near the table, wrapped around the yarn.
(5) Cockled Yarn
Appearance: In the yarn of the length of the fiber width, there is a large gap in the gap. The thickness of the yarn changes like a bamboo knot. Generally, the weft yarn of the roving fabric is more common, so it is also called bamboo weft.
Causes:
The drafting roller of the spinning machine is set tightly, the roller cover is too loose, and the roving of the feeding is occasionally different in length.
6) Uneven Yarn
Appearance: Observed from the long side of the fabric, the woven yarn has uneven thickness. It usually occurs in weft yarns.
Causes:
The yarn spun from the spinning machine, due to the failure of the drafting mechanism, or the poor performance, the yarn that is spun out is in a certain period, and there is a slighter when it is slightly thicker.
(7) Cloudd of Weaaving
Appearance: The number of weft yarns is not uniform. When weaving, the thick or thin ones are arranged in a concentrated manner to form a sheet. The appearance of the cloth surface is like a piece of clouds, so it is called Yunzhi.
Causes:
The weft yarns are irregular in regularity, and the arrangement of the weft yarns during weaving is just as thick or thin.
(8) Fiber Spot
Appearance: Dyed fabric, a very small amount of fiber in the fabric is not colored, or lightly colored, and appears white.
Causes:
1. There are dead cotton fibers in cotton fibers.
2. In the spinning process, due to negligence or poor control, a very small amount of polyester fiber is mixed, and when the dyeing is not using a disperse dye, and non-high temperature is applied, the polyester fiber is not colored.
(9) Different batch numbers (Different Iots)
Appearance: chemical fiber or chemical fiber processing silk fabric, blended yarn fabric, the thickness and density of the count are in line with the regulations, but after dyeing, the warp or weft yarn has a clear distinction between the color depth.
Causes:
1. Although the same silk is used in weaving, the manufacturing batch number is different. Since the color absorbing properties are different, or the stretchability and bulkiness are inconsistent, after dyeing, there is a difference in color depth?
2. The blended yarn used in weaving, although the number and density of the blended yarn meet the requirements, but the blending ratio of the fibers in the yarn is different, and the difference in color depth after dyeing.
(10) Poor steaming:
Appearance: A ç–‹ E/C blended fabric, after desizing, scouring and bleaching, the fabric has different width and width variations.
Causes:
After the spun yarn is dropped into the tube, it needs to be steamed in a closed container by high-pressure saturated steam to stabilize the physical properties of the yarn. If the temperature or time of the steaming yarn is insufficient and the yarn is not shaped, the fabric surface will be tightly stretched and loosened after cooking.
11) White point:
Appearance: Dyed fabric, the fabric surface shows uncolored fiber clusters, especially those with dark color.
Causes:
Most of the cotton dyeing cloths in the middle and lower grades, the cotton particles formed by the dead cotton fibers in the yarn, can not be removed during the refining and mercerizing. Due to the poor colorability of the dead cotton fiber during dyeing, it is difficult to dye and present a white spot. Recently, cotton fabrics woven from cotton beginnings of 20Ne or less are often produced during dyeing.
2 is the reason for weaving
(1) Wrong Yarn (2) Wrong End
(3) Wrong Pick (4) Organizational Error (Wrong Weaving)
(5) and by (Wrong Draw) (6) and latitude (Mispick)
(7) Set Mark, Fine (8) Secret Road (Set Mark, Coarse)
(9) Pick-Out Mark (10) Broken End
(11) Broken Pick (12) hundred feet (deficient weft)
(13) End Snarl (14) Welting Snarl
(15) Reed Mark (16) Temple Mark
(17) Rolling shuttle (18) square eye (Reedness)
(19) Yarn Tail (20) connector (Knot)
(21) Float (22) cobweb
(23) Weaving Hole (24) Slack End
(25) Slack Filing (26) Tight End
(27) Titht Filling (28) crack
(29) Repair root (30) Teariness
(31) Broken Seelvage (32) Tight Selvage
(33) Slack Selvage (34) serrated edge
(35) Uneven (36) missing needle
(37) Yarn error (38) Starch Lump
(39) mildew
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